The 12 Best Waffle Thermals for Advanced-Level Layering
Under a tee, a flannel, or as a base-layer when you go skiing—they can do it all.
A waffle thermal is as classic as American menswear gets. Think union suits and cowboy base layers, lumberjacks and railroad workers. Blue-collar stuff before the term blue-collar was coined. The technology involved is simple: The waffle baffles help insulate the body and create some extra durability. As often happens, style chases former utility, and the thermal has had several seasons in the sun, maybe most notably in the late ’80s to early ’90s on the heels of grunge rock. If you’ve ever seen someone layer a graphic tee over a plain white thermal, this is where it comes from.
But somewhere along the way, the waffle knit, or, more specifically, the waffle knit Henley, became the go-to shirt for every wannabe bachelor-type. The tight, base-layer fit and ability to undo every button to emphasize PED-enhanced pectorals made it reality television’s de facto uniform, and a sea of fast-fashion, polyester-riddled versions flooded the market and our collective consciousness.
But all we true fans had to do was wait. Like 100 percent cotton, no-stretch denim, and the ringer tee, the waffle knit is back in full force. Good news for my wardrobe, bad news for my wallet. This time around, we’ve got a few recommendations on how to wear it: crewneck instead of Henley, look for something in all-natural materials, and, unless you’re trying to use it as a real base layer, emphasize drape over a skintight fit. And we’ve kick-started your process with 12 recommendations of brands that are doing it just right.
Merz b. Schwanen Diamond-Patterned Cotton Thermal Longsleeve
Okay, a diamond isn't technically a waffle, but this thermal is good enough to overlook the geometric inconsistency. These days, Merz is best known for its very good tees, as seen on Jeremy Allen White in The Bear. But the German brand does more than outfit the biceps of Hollywood's leading man du jour; it also quietly makes very good basics across the board.
This thermal stands out for its triangle inserts under the arms and burly, yet soft, one-hundred percent cotton weave. The biceps, unfortunately, are sold separately.
- Matthew Medendrop / Esquire
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