On Henleys
There aren’t many times I’ve blamed Austin Butler for anything, but the renaissance of the henley might just be his doing. I’ve always had a semi-contentious relationship with the shirt. Somehow, it slipped into my closet and refuses to leave. A bit too casual, a bit too slouchy, it adds a boyishness to my appearance just when I’m trying to look like a Very Serious Adult.
The henleys I do own usually end up at the back of my closet, only making an appearance as a quick layering option or a shirt for painting the living room. But now, with its resurgence in menswear, I’m starting to see how wrong I’ve been. And while I still can’t forgive Butler for his unusual Elvis accent, I’m man enough to admit I want to look as good as he does in one.
The Henley’s Unspoken Rules
Like any adversary, it’s best to know its strengths and weaknesses. The boyishness of the henley’s design—its slouchy silhouette, its collarlessness–are why people enjoy throwing one on for all-day comfort. The problem is, of course, that you don’t want to veer too far into the informality of the garment or you run the risk of looking like you’re still in your pajamas.
To combat this effectively, get the basics down. You should always go for a long-sleeve over a short-, always keep the collar open, and never pair a henley with a suit or sports coat. Instead, a henley needs to stand on its own and be defiant of the inherent structure of traditional menswear while still hitting the key points of quality, fit, and fabric.
Because the henley has an almost sophomoric look, getting the fit down helps in elevating this particular garment to being a legitimate staple in your wardrobe. While many henleys have a slightly looser fit, look for ones that have a slight tapering at the trunk to help slim your midsection and elongate your overall frame.
Merz b. Schwanen Classic Fit Midweight Long Sleeve Henley
Perhaps the granddaddy of them all (or should I say Großvater?), Merz b. Schwanen’s henley hits the right balance between heritage, fit, and style. Made on century-old loopwheelers, the German brand’s henleys have an almost artisanal quality to them. The extra-long packet and slightly draped shoulder both add to the vintage feel of this henley, which, paradoxically, is what makes it feel so modern.
- Brett Braley / Cool Material