I have several crewneck sweatshirts, but only one is gray, and it’s not ideal. It is from American Giant and super-heavyweight at 16 ounces. Because of the fabric’s heft, it bunches when I try to layer underneath and feels best worn on its own. For me, layering is an important part of the gray crewneck’s versatility: In the warmer months, when the temperature dips in the evening, I want one I can throw over a pocket tee or a blue oxford. Come fall and winter, I’d like to wear one under a denim jacket or a down puffer. Where black can feel too streetwear and navy can feel overly preppy, classic athletic gray is more versatile and doesn’t fade like the other two. And that has led me to look for more options.
My ideal gray crewneck has a ribbed round collar that sits close to the neck (no bacon neck, please). Instead of typical raglan sleeves (where the sleeve runs in one piece from the collar down to the underarm), I usually prefer set-in sleeves, where the seam sits right at the natural shoulder, because it has a trimmer fit and can be worn under a navy blazer. I also look for ribbed cuffs that fold cleanly and a ribbed hem that stays put (and can be folded under if needed).
I want a clean fit that’s neither too baggy nor too slim. I’m looking for a crewneck you can wear out to dinner. (For reference, I typically wear a size small, 36-inch chest, 14.5-inch neck, 30- to 31-inch waist, 33-inch-sleeve length.) When it comes to material, the less polyester, the better. For the interior, loopback cotton (which is also called French terry) or fleece works. I want a mid-weight fabric (11 to 14 ounces) and that recognizable ribbed V-stitch (the “Dorito”) at the collar — a vintage touch originally constructed to catch sweat and help the neckline hold its shape — but it’s not a deal-breaker if the latter is missing (which is often the case). And I prefer not a flat gray but a marled athletic mélange. Here are the gray crewneck sweatshirts I tried, all under $200, and the two winners I found.
Merz b. Schwanen Vintage Fleece Sweatshirt with Brushed Interior - Grey Melange
Like its T-shirts, Merz b. Schwanen’s crewneck is exceptional for this category. Made from 100 percent organic cotton in an ideal 11-ounce weight, the recycled brushed-fleece interior is soft and not the least bit itchy. It has the ribbed V-stitch ribbed cuffs and waist — ones that pop a little more, which I love — and a garment-dyed finish that gives it that perfect gray-mélange look.
- Leon Hedgepeth / The Strategist, New York Magazine
